“These proteins are not cells but trigger biochemical pathways leading to repair.” Here’s where the aforementioned foreskin comes in. “Human stem-cell derived protein messengers have been shown to help aid repair and regeneration,” says Patel. While barley-produced growth factors are human-like, and can therefore be very useful in skincare products, generally speaking plant growth factors cannot communicate with our cells in the same way as human-derived growth factors. “Fibroblasts start to produce more collagen and elastin.” Which translates as firmer, more youthful-looking skin. “The EGF signal trickles down to the dermis, where it activates the fibroblasts,” says Dr Dögg Guðjónsdóttir. Using this supercharged Barley EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor), their new EGF Power Serum binds to and activates the skin’s top layer of cells, which then start to produce EGFs that activate neighbouring cells. They can activate different processes in the skin – for example, the repairing and healing processes – and are important for the regulation of other processes, as well.”Īt Bioeffect, Dr Dögg Guðjónsdóttir and her team use growth factors produced in barley due to their similarities to human growth factors, which “play a vital role in the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid to maintain skin’s healthy and dense appearance”. “Growth factors are signalling proteins produced by stem cells found, for example, in the skin and used as a communication tool between the cells,” says Dr Sigrún Dögg Guðjónsdóttir, chief of research and development at Bioeffect. “They are recognised by our body and have a specific role to play in different organs. So where is this stem cell skincare craze coming from? Enter growth factors. What’s the best stem cell serum for the face?Īt present, human stem cells cannot survive outside lab conditions or their natural habitat, and plant stem cell extracts cannot deliver the kind of benefits stem cell technology promises. “Those stem cells won’t be able to create the same level of regeneration and repair in our bodies.” Which is why most products that contain plant stem cell extracts also contain other actives or peptides. “We are mammals and not plants,” agrees Holmes. “Although stem cell therapy is nothing new (it has been used in medicine to regenerate tissue for decades), it is a relatively new concept in beauty treatments and skincare products,” says skin expert Nilam Holmes. There has been a lot of interest in stem cells and their role in beauty as of late, with the idea being that stem cells contain proteins and amino acids which send signals to other cells to regenerate, which would essentially result in younger-looking skin. For example, you may have heard of stem cells being collected from umbilical cords after babies are born to be put on hold should that baby require healthy stem cells in later life to replace damaged cells via transplant. Which means that if there is a certain area of damage within the body, stem cells can turn into the cell types that are needed to replace the affected cells. By Hannah Coates and Tish Weinstock What are stem cells?Īccording to Dr Dev Patel, specialist in aesthetics and regenerative medicine, and medical director of Perfect Skin Solutions, stem cells are undifferentiated cells within the body that have the potential to develop characteristics specific to cells in a given organ or tissue.
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